Day One. 04 Mar 2005
Sealdah - New Delhi by 2313 Sealdah Rajdhani Express.
There were five of us traveling together, my dad, an uncle and two aunts. We all made our way to Sealdah station
well in time for the 1635 departure. We had berths in AS-7, which is right next to the pantry car. The train composition
was the same as always. Unfortunately, we had a Kanpur homed WAP-4 (#22307), which was followed by the following:
Loco, EOG, CC1, AS1-7, PC, A1-A3, H1, EOG.
We settled ourselves in and waited for departure. Contrary to expectations the loco kept up a good speed and we
were to reach New Delhi on time. The stoppages passed by in a flash… Durgapur, Asansol, Dhanbad. What was disappointing
was that the quality of service had taken a turn for the worse. Gone was the refreshing face towel, its place taken
by airline style moistened tissue. The evening snacks followed, which was at par with the last journey. Bhujia,
Sohan-papdi, cole-slaw sandwich and tea / coffee. Something I noticed and which caused consternation was the smell
that came from the coffee. I figured it was from the water. Was not a problem in the tea as the flavour of tea
probably masked the smell, but the trick didn't work with the coffee. End result was that coffee carried a foul
flavour. As we sped through the familiar countryside, much of the time was taken up chatting with my family members.
This was the first time I noticed that they would announce on the PA system at what time dinner was likely to be
served. Soon it was dinnertime. The tomato soup and the breadsticks came first. The main course followed. I got
double helpings as my aunt was on a fast. So I ordered one non-vegetarian continental and one non-vegetarian Indian.
The continental had the usual pasta (this time with vegetables), chowmein (the quality of both had improved), fried
chicken (more of a disappointment), bread, butter and salad. Vanilla ice-cream topped the menu. Somehow the packaging
of the food did not look so attractive this time. The Indian meal consisted of rice, dal, roomali roti and chicken
masala. The chicken was quite tasty but a little too spicy.
As I had done the reservations online, I had got berths of my choice. So soon after dinner, we made our beds and
called it a night. The rather vocal man who had usurped one of the window seats we had had quietened down too.
I had a side upper berth and I lay down, listened to music for a short while before I drifted off to sound sleep.
Day Two. 05 Mar 2005
Sealdah - New Delhi by 2313 Sealdah Rajdhani Express.
The morning found me up bright and early. Had my morning tea (the usual fare) and settled down to read the newspaper.
Kanpur had already passed by then. Breakfast was served. I had an omelette (which was accompanied by the regulation
boiled vegetables, bread, butter and jam. I also had some extra vegetable cutlets and they were quite disappointing.
Already annoyed by the quality of food I had made up my mind to pay a visit to the pantry car. I walked to the
next coach and found the manager, demanding the complaint book. He requested me not to make a formal complaint,
as it would cost him his job. He said I could tell him what I wanted and it would be taken care of. After a bit
of arguing and pleading I decided to let him off and complained about the food. I told him, of the 6 pieces of
chicken I had seen/eaten, not one was a 'proper' piece, and wonder where the good ones went. Also complained about
the noodles. He said that was an extra anyway and they had barely 3 hours to cook stuff for dinner, which I could
empathise with. He also said I could ask them to make dishes as per my request and they would try their best to
comply (on the return journey my dad did try it out and they did make him a boiled chicken, lightly stir fried
and it was quite palatable). Job done, I trooped back to my coach.
I spent some time at the door as we passed Aligarh and Ghaziabad, keeping a watch for the traffic. Did not see
anything particularly enticing. We were served a glass of Pepsi, just prior to arrival. We reached New Delhi on
time, and were met by a cousin, who escorted us to my uncle's place at Safdarjung Enclave, where we were headed
to attend my cousin's wedding.
Day Three. 06 Mar 2005
National Rail Museum, Delhi
Finding I had some time in hand, and wanting to make a short escape from the wedding frenzy, and get a breath of
fresh air, I decided to make a trip to the railway museum. Paying the 10-rupee entry fee, I entered the museum
where I had been more than a couple of times previously. Not much had really changed. The souvenir store still
stocked some outrageous products. Ugly key chains, pens and mugs ruled the roost. I couldn't not find a single
publication I wanted to buy. A whole yard of terrible made models adorned the showcase. Deciding I had had enough
I made my way to the indoor exhibit. Much was as I remembered, except a couple of galleries were being renovated.
The model trains were as before, running at intervals, badly kept and totally disconnected to Indian Railways!
I stepped outside into the sunlight and took many a stroll past the various outdoor exhibits. Nothing new or notable
I noticed. The maintenance was worse than ever. Many locos were in a rusted state. The ex-BNR Garratt was possibly
the worst of all… badly needing a fresh coat of paint. What I found annoying was that so many of the exhibits were
placed so close together, affording no breathing space, or a chance to photograph them on their own. I was focusing
more on diesels and electrics. Though there were no new electrics on view (don't recall if the WAM-1 and WAG-1
were there on my previous visit), I found a new WDM-2 (supposedly the first one in India), from Katni shed. A YDM-1
was also parked, made by North British and bearing original maker's plates, and resplendent in an orange livery.
Also found tiny narrow gauge coaches, more short than tiny actually. Rather amusing.
What also caught my interest was the Patiala State Monorail, which was being steamed up. I watched the crew fire
her up. Chatted a few minutes with the driver and learned he was a mainline steam driver on the Delhi - Bathinda
section before medical compulsions shifted him to the museum. He now drives the monorail. He informed me that the
loco had just come back from repairs and was still having trouble. I had already purchased the Rs 10 ticket from
the counter (which, when showed to the crew, elicited an unfavourable response aimed at the counter clerk since
the monorail was not ready). I waited for a while and then the driver told me to hop on since I had a ticket, they
were going to do a test run. I was the only passenger! Took a round of the pond like structure and came to a stop.
Was as rattly (if not more) than a narrow gauge train. Just as slow too. But it was steam. Real coal-fired steam!
I walked around some more before deciding to take a video of the monorail in action. That was a rather long wait
since halfway through its next trip it stopped. Waited quite a while as fresh coal was fed, and a garden hose snaked
is way to the loco to quench her thirst. Shortly she started again, giving me the opportunity to catch her in motion!
Having had enough, I made my way back to my uncle's place.
Day Five. 08 Mar 2005
New Delhi - Kanpur by 2452 Shram Shakti Express.
Lakshman was supposed to accompany me from Delhi. He had to cancel his plans at the last moment. I had already
cancelled his ticket the day before at the Sarojini Nagar Reservation office. I was surprised to find very short
queues, but that was no solace as the clerks took inordinately long times to serve each person. Many were making
enquiries and the clerks were giving them all kinds of information and advice. Luckily, our turn came before my
patience hit rock bottom.
My friends with whom I had stayed the last day were dropping me to New Delhi station. After a dinner and drinks
session (where I should have had one drink less) I found myself parked at New Delhi station an hour before the
train's scheduled departure of 2330 hrs. I made my way to the platform and was pleasantly surprised to find the
train already at the station. I found my coach (AS-2) and located my berth. I could not find out the coach composition
or the engine, but I found out later at Kanpur that we had had a WAP-5 in command. It was a new coach and looked
very clean and inviting. The attendant had already dumped the bedroll onto the berths. I must say that a bedroll
makes a big difference in the comfort levels of the journey. Having nice clean sheets, a blanket and a pillow (not
to forget a hand towel) goes a long way in adding to the comfort level. Anyway, I sat on my seat, hunched forward
as the middle berth was already up. As soon as it departed from the station I went to the door to watch the train
leave Delhi. The coach was a brand new one, of 04 make. I opened the toilet door and got a pleasant surprise. It
was clean and very bright looking. Only thing missing was an exhaust fan. There were far fewer exposed pipes (like
where the flush is). Instead it had a raised panel, on which the press flush was embedded. And it worked very well
too. The pan and the floor were better made. Only problems were… the washbasin was small, and there were no clothes-hooks
behind the door. Only one hook next to the washbasin and that could mean trousers hung from it could get soiled
or wet. Even the washbasin outside the toilet was of the smaller design, and interestingly, was placed at an angle
instead of perpendicular to the corridor. This was actually quite helpful, single having the door open didn't get
in the way of a passenger using the basin. I finally made my way to my berth and immediately went off to sleep,
a relief from the headache that seemed to have been developing.
Day Six. 09 Mar 2005
New Delhi - Kanpur by 2452 Shram Shakti Express.
The morning dawned fine. I woke up early and we were still a way before Kanpur. We trudged along, and soon crossed
Govindpuri, and I knew we were almost there. Just before we entered the station I saw in the distance a couple
of WAP-4s parked, their red marker lights looking like devil's eyes in the dawn sky. We arrived at the platform,
and I found Mr Buddhadeb Saha who had arrived from Calcutta on the Sealdah Rajdhani, waiting at the platform to
meet me. We then made our way outside, followed by a gaggle of taxi and auto-rickshaw drivers (I think gaggle would
indeed make a very apt collective noun for them), we spent time bargaining till an auto rickshaw driver agreed
to take us to IIT for Rs 80. A policeman came to make a receipt (that's when we learnt from the driver that all
autos have to operate on a pre-paid basis). Apparently, the driver had quoted us less because the policeman admonished
him for it and said the rate was Rs 100. I couldn't figure out whether he was a comrade in arm:), but the distance
to IIT was quite substantial. We finally reached and I caught up with my contact there whom I had arranged a meeting
with.
We had planned to take the Delhi - Lucknow Shatabdi Express from Kanpur to Lucknow, but instead upon insistence
from the IIT gentleman, we settled for a car instead. I was naturally complaining all the way, since I did want
to take a ride in the LHB coach.
RDSO and others, Lucknow.
We reached Lucknow and found our way to the Railway guesthouse next to the station where arrangements had been
made for us. We found a very comfortable and well-appointed room there, nicely furnished. The place was still being
renovated and was therefore quite messy outside. Once we managed to get freshened up, we left the room and headed
out to RDSO. We looked around for Mr Rakesh Mishra, who was busy in a meeting so we hung around outside. There
was a triple line track right next to the gate and we attempted to do some trainspotting but there was hardly any
traffic. I saw a P-4 coming up and got my camera ready; clicking away, only as the train had passed did I realize
it was the LHB Shatabdi headed back to Delhi. There was a small track, which led to stone steps up the railway
empankment, since there are some RDSO buildings across the tracks too. There were small signals, to warn crossers
of approaching trains but these were not functional, and in a state of disrepair.
We headed back to the RDSO building and finally met up with Mr Mishra. He spent a few minutes with us inspite of
a busy schedule and a short discussion ensued. On the way out, we also met up with the Director, Telecom (DC),
who my IIT contact had come to meet. We had to leave very soon as we were supposed to meet up with Rajeev Shrivastava
at his office at 6 pm. We got ourselves an auto there (Lucknow drivers really overcharge), and after getting the
two zonal headquarters confused and having to take a cycle rickshaw between them, we finally caught up with Rajeev.
He immediately took us to his house for tea and then we headed out for dinner, of what else… but Lucknowi kababs!!!
Lucknow - Varanasi by 4258 NDLS-BSB Kashi Vishwanath Express.
After picking up our baggage from the guesthouse, we found ourselves at the station, in time for the 2315 departure,
only to find out the train was late by over an hour. Rajeev came in soon afterwards and we spent time talking.
Initially we were parked at the station entrance but later we made our way to the platform where the train was
expected. We perched on some trunks we found at the platform, as we took in the sight of a few stray cows roaming
around the platform. Rajeev informed us that the cows somehow also manage to climb the staircase and are to be
seen on the foot over bridges too. Our train finally arrived at about 0100 hrs, and we found our berths. While
Rajeev had a 1A reservation, we had decided to travel sleeper class on this overnight trip. The coach was reasonably
clean and we found our lower berths and settled in.
Day Seven. 10 Mar 2005
Lucknow - Varanasi by 4258 NDLS-BSB Kashi Vishwanath Express.
The morning found us running about 90 minutes late. We were passing through the small towns on the route, and the
train stopped at most of these. Apparently this train has a lot of stoppages on the last leg of its run, as there
are no other convenient trains. We stopped at Bhadohi, which is famous for its woolen rugs. Shortly afterwards
we were at Varanasi station. We crossed over to the platform 4-5, where the single room of the officer's rest house
was situated. This is right next to the small bay platforms that hold the officer's saloons. The room was large,
with huge bathrooms. Two air conditioners complemented the double bed, sofas and the small dining table and chairs
that formed part of the furniture. We were immediately offered a nice breakfast... Toast and omelettes (which were
from the refreshment room nearby and quite tasty) and alu-poories, which were got from outside, along with jalebis
and curd, which I must admit, go very well together.
Malviya Bridge and Vyasnagar Station
After freshening up we got ready for the rest of the day. Made a short visit to the Malviya Bridge, which is just
beyond Kashi Station. The original bridge (then known as the Dufferin Bridge) was built in 1882, and carried a
single broad gauge line, and a road, which ran along with the tracks. In 1947 it was regirdered, and made into
a double line bridge and a separate second tier was built for the road. The bridge was built according to the old
designs then in vogue and consists of fortified stone towers at each end, for soldiers to guard the bridge from.
We visited the towers and got a grand view from them. We then made our way to Vyasnagar station, across the river
and on the way to Mughal Sarai. Here we did some train spotting, and had a look at the Plasser Ballast Cleaner
as wellas the Duomatic machine parked there. Fabulous beasts, especially the ballast-cleaning machine. The cab
was of an utmost modern design, and very well fitted out, I would say far superior to the original ABB 3-phase
locos. We bemoaned the fact we missed the chance to see these in action since they were not able to get a traffic
block on that day. We then made our way beyond the station where track work was in progress, and then made our
way back. Had some home-cooked lunch at Vyasnagar station, which was a wonderful experience. After spending some
more time watching trains go by and trolleys in action, we called it a day and drove back to Varanasi station.
We had a boat ride scheduled for the evening, which was slightly marred by the fact it was raining, but in spite
of all hurdles, we managed to pull it off, and follow it up by a grand dinner of soup and chicken curry, all in
the comfort of our rest house. We called it a night, tired and happy and full of new experiences.
We also spent some time roaming about the platform. There was a lot of activity, a substantial part of it freight
and a wide variety of diesel locomotives in various liveries and from various sheds were to be seen. There were
continuous arrivals and departures through the day, with the goods traffic coming down drastically in the night
hours.
Day Eight. 11 Mar 2005
Diesel Locomotive Works and RRI Cabin, Varanasi
We readied ourselves in the morning anticipating our visit to the Diesel Locomotive Works. We had already arranged
for passes, and waited for confirmation, upon which, we took a car and made our way through Varanasi's crowded
and chaotic roads towards DLW. A half hour ride later, we were at the gates. Security is tight, as evident by the
gatepass, which had a printout of the person's (in who's name it was issued) photograph. We made our way in and
were met by an engineer who accompanied us, showing us the different workshops. We went about in logical order,
starting where the engine blocks were produced, down the machining and milling workshops, and then to the assembly
area where the engine is assembled. What was of interest was the engine test room, where the fully assembled engine
unit is run and tested before being used. We then saw the area where the under frames were made, and the engine
block attached, and then the bodies are fabricated. Many of the components (including the traction motors) are
outsourced. We paid a visit to the paint workshops, and then to the assembly workshop where the final assembly
is conducted, and followed up by testing.
Most of the locomotives in manufacture were the 4000 hp WDP-4s and WDG-3As. We had a walk around, and then went
out towards the administrative block. Saw a few locos (notably the YDM-3) plinthed around the campus. We met up
with the secretary to the GM, and the PRO, who were extremely helpful. We were, however unable to get photography
permits, as it was totally against the rules. We had to be satisfied with solution that the official photographer
would accompany us and take photos on our behalf. We had to then immediately head back to the station for lunch
and to see Rajeev off who had to reach Lucknow by the evening. After another delicious lunch, we were back at DLW,
this time with the official photographer accompanying us with his camera and acting on our requests to shoot what
we wanted. A cumbersome process no doubt, but better than nothing. They are mostly used to photographing locos
in a completed stage and we wanted a few shots of unpainted units as they were being produced. The job done, we
headed back to the station.
We then went over to see the Route Relay Interlocking cabin at Varanasi station, which controls all the train movements.
The gentleman in-charge was very kind to show us around the cabin, as well as the relay room. The cabin was, of
course, like most other RRI cabins. We found that the station had its RRI commissioned in the 1980s, and it coincided
with the last metre gauge line being converted to broad gauge, and the NER section of the station being handed
over to NR for running. Unable to take photographs, we finished viewing the place, and after a short conversation
with the in-charge, we headed back to the station.
The absence of Rajeev was beginning to be felt, and we had to content ourselves relaxing about the station, and
killing time before we could move on to Mughal Sarai.
Varanasi - Mughal Sarai by 5110 Sarnath - Rajgir Budh Purnima Express.
When we got back to Varanasi station at about 1730, we found the Amritsar-Howrah express awaiting departure. Then
inexplicably it was delayed and waited and waited. We had to make our way to Mughal Sarai in time for our 0203
hrs departure, and were discussing on which train to take. We more or less had a choice between the Kisan Exp,
Neelachal Exp, Himgiri Exp and the Budh Purnima Exp. At about 2000, we found the 5110 Budh Purnima Exp already
at the platform. The Amritsar Exp still had not departed. We waited and waited, watching the goods trains getting
clearance one by one. It was most annoying to see passenger trains being delayed. There was some talk of line trouble
ahead but I am sure there was a rumour since the freights were being given authority to proceed. We just decided
to board the Budh Purnima Exp, and expecting it to depart about 0900, we sat and waited. We had picked the SLR-guards-GS
coach right next to the loco. We had the compartment to ourselves and it was clean and well maintained. The coaches
seemed pretty new too. The rest of the train wasn't too crowded either. We heard the station PA system announce
the arrival of the other trains one by one but none departed. We were left wondering which would depart first;
I would have guessed either the Himgiri or the Neelachal since they were important trains, but thankfully, after
the Amritsar - Howrah had left, we were given the green first. So we were on our merry way, having departed past
2300 hours, all that for a sub-20 km journey.
We were not out of trouble yet. Barely out of the station, we had another stop signal that kept us at abeyance
for quite some time, before we finally got a line clear. I am not sure how much longer it took after that as I
kept dozing off, overcome by tiredness. When I woke up, we were entering Mughal Sarai station, at about half past
midnight. We had made it in time. We looked for something to eat; our early dinner had only consisted of omlette
and toast at Varanasi station. We found some biscuits and some really desperate coffee, if one can call it that.
Then came the wait. The station was full of large insects, attracted by the strong lights. The up Howrah-Delhi
Rajdhani came in behind a P-4, followed by the up Sealdah-Delhi Rajdhani. More trains followed. Mughal Sarai is
one busy junction. On the other direction, the Bilaspur Rajdhani came in.
Day Nine. 12 Mar 2005
Mughal Sarai - Sealdah by 2314 Sealdah Rajdhani Express.
Then it was announced the Sealdah Rajdhani was running late by over 30 minutes. We strolled about the station,
waiting in patches. In a corner some foreign tourists seemed to be attracting a lot of local attention by some
kind of a weird game they were playing. There were people waiting all over. At the last moment, it was announced
that the Sealdah Rajdhani was arriving, but on another platform, so we had to scramble, drag our bags over the
bridge and switch to the correct platform. Soon the train arrived, 45 minutes late, behind a WAP-5 of Ghaziabad
shed (finally!). We tumbled into our coach (AS5), forcibly having to disturb our fellow passengers in the middle
of the night. We had berths 1&2. Mr. Saha's middle berth had been occupied by another passenger (how inconsiderate
of them), and we had a co-passenger whining about his allotted berth. The same gentleman was going to whine the
next morning when the pantry car staff charged him Rs 10 for an extra bottle of mineral water.
We were pleasantly surprised by the courteousness of the TTE. He made sure the attendant gave us water and made
sure we had our bedrolls and had made our beds before he wished us good night and switched off the lights. Such
small touches go a long way in making travel a pleasure. Sleep then overcame us and we drifted off gratefully in
our upper berths, happy to know we would be home before noon the next day.
Morning saw us still running late, by over 30 minutes. I missed my morning tea as I woke up late and the waiter
brought me some readymade tea. Then came the newspaper, and I got to read a copy of the Telegraph, which is what
I am used to at home. Breakfast was soon served and I dug into my omlette bread and boiled vegetable routine. Coffee
followed, this time the bad taste somewhat masked by the Nestle Coffee Mate I was carrying with me. Soon we had
passed Dhanbad, Asansol and Durgapur, and just after Dankuni, we passed the Vivekananda Bridge to arrive at Dumdum,
and minutes later, at Sealdah. We had already moved our baggage close to the door so we could make a dash out and
avoid a long taxi queue. At the concourse I had my camera ready and sneaked off a photo of the WAP-5, but, only
after getting home did I see the horrible camera shake, totally ruining the photo.
A great trip, and our gratitude to Rajeev, who made most of it happen. |
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Early morning scene from the Rajdhani Express, somewhere before Delhi.
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NRM: Dilapidated condition of ex BNR Garratt loco.
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NRM: WAG-1 20710 'Bidhan', at rest.
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NRM: WAM-1 20202.
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NRM: WDP-1 loco, among the foliage.
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NRM: closeup of manufacturer's plates on the YDM-1.
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NRM: These tiny narrow gauge coaches fascinated me.
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NRM: The Patiala State Monorial, taking water through a garden hose.
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NRM: the firebox of the Patiala State Monorail.
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Pedestrain crossing over the main lines at RDSO, Lucknow. The lights are non-functional..
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Cow on Lucknow platform. They even make it to the overbridges.
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The Dufferin (now Malviya) bridge over the Ganga at Varanasi.
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Plaque on the Malviya bridge,
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High tech Ballast Cleaning machine. Very fancy stuff these.
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Plasser Duomatic Tie Tamping machine.
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CLoseup of Private Number Book issued to Station Managers.
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Old cabin at Vyasnagar station, now abandoned and used as a store.
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Rajeev & I on a trolley.
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Closeup of the spike in front of a trolley wheel. This acts like a miniature cowcatcher.
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Varanasi station at night.
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Rain soaked evening at Varanasi.
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A WDG-3C 'Cheetah' taking on fuel at Varanasi
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Loco fronts embedded on the wall just outside the DLW plant.
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YDM-3 plinted at DLW.
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Old NG loco 'Miss MUffet' plinted at DLW.
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